Visitors to Green Turtle Cay

International arrival at Marsh Harbor airport

At last we had our first visitors in the Bahamas.  It was marvelous!  There have been relatively few visitors to Northern Star since we moved aboard last April, and until now, visitors were all while in the U.S.  Perhaps then you can understand our excitement at traveling to Marsh Harbor to pick up our guests from Memphis, TN.  

Carl's sister at Treasure Cay

My husband’s sister and her husband arrived last Tuesday noon and departed again via Marsh Harbor Intl. Airport on Saturday.  It was our (okay, more my) goal to pack as much Bahama life into those days as possible.  My husband reminded me that we had to allow them time to do what they wanted to do, too.  “Ya, ya, okay, okay,” I said.

Walking beaches of Green Turtle Cay

From the Marsh Harbor Airport we drove to Treasure Cay where we had a beautiful lunch on the beach.  Then, we rode the ferry to Green Turtle Cay, crossing the Sea of Abaco from Great Abaco Island.  The aqua water does not disappoint any visitors to the Bahamas, I’m sure.  

First time driving a golf cart

We walked the beaches both along the ocean and the bays on Green Turtle Cay.   A golf cart helped us cover a lot more ground that we might have done on foot, or in our dinghy.  Theoretically, we could take four people in our dinghy, but I might not want to be one of them.  Just sayin’.  There were strong winds for their visit.  With four in a dinghy, we’d have been riding low in the water, and would have been drenched.  Although we’ve become used to getting sprayed on wet dinghy rides its probably not the best way to entertain one’s new guests to the Bahamas. 

Bronze Sculpture Garden

We were pleased to show off  “our” little town, New Plymouth, the settlement on Green Turtle Cay.    Our guests enjoyed the Albert Lowe Museum, which is housed in an 1826 house and explains the history of Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos.  The Loyalist Statue Garden was a must, as well.  And the cemetery; I always think a walk through a cemetery has much to say about the history of a community.   Bahamians, similar to the Americans, tend to care for the gravestones of loved ones, and mark the places on the island where deaths have occurred.   A delightful lunch on the beach at Harvey’s followed.

Lunch at Harvey's on the shore

Our guests stayed at the Bluff House Marina and resort in a lovely second floor room overlooking sunsets over the Sea of Abaco.   The remark was made that the scene was a “1940’s postcard of the Bahamas.”  Ya, I think we’ve all seen that postcard. 

Sunset from Bluff House

The major event of the week was an “Adventure Day” with Brendal’s Dive and Watersports.  Brendal is a well-known waterman in the Bahamas, bringing people out to snorkel, scuba dive, learn how to spear lobster, and can teach folks how to sail too.   Just about anything that takes place on or under the water Brendal can do with ease.  The Wall of Fame in his dive shop includes names such as Pierre Trudeau, the Discovery Channel and the Food Network.  He is quite an amazing character.  Complete with an incorrigible sense of humor. 

Brendal's Dive Center boat.  The manta rays met us here.

The four of us met at 9:00 at the Dive shop and three of us were outfitted with wetsuits and snorkel gear.  Carl’s  sister opted to watch us from the boat.  Carl and I had recently purchased our own snorkel equipment which we were eager to initiate.  We each also wore a small buoyancy vest.  

Snorkeling is so easy with wetsuit and buoyancy vest.

There were six paying customers, along with Brendal and two helpers onboard.  Because the winds were still rather strong, the water on the ocean reefs was a bit dicey.  Therefore, rather than the reefs, we snorkeled on a shipwreck.  This day was spectacular and I am now determined to snorkel every chance I get.   The plentiful fish on the wreck were gregarious.  The more rare specimens were shy and required a bit of patience for their appearance. 

 

One of the shy fish

While we were snorkeling, Brendal and one of the helpers swam up along the shore looking for indentations in the shoreline that were suspicious for housing lobsters.  They speared a few to add to the ones that he had brought with him, just in case.  Brendal made some lunch preparations on board—then took us to a pristine beach where his helpers showed us how to feed manta rays pieces of fish from between our toes.  

Manta rays waiting for their fish from our toes

The rays were waiting for us — apparently they have an ongoing relationship with Brendal.  One of them he calls “Tony.”  The rays swam back and forth vacuuming the tops of our feet for the chunks of fish.  With a bit of practice, we were able to feed them the fish from between our fingers too.  Did you know that manta rays like their underbellies scratched; I was reminded of our dog, Jax.  We were told that later in the day, the really huge rays would make an appearance.  Amazing creatures!  Simply amazing!

Snapper in the big pot and butter sauce

While we were shrieking and flirting with the notion that the manta rays could nip our toes, Brendal built a tiny fire and cooked our lobster and fresh mutton snapper in a big old Dutch oven over a few sticks the two men had gathered.  A wonderfully aromatic butter and citrus sauce bubbled on the crude grate as well.  

Bendal preparing the salad on the beach

We had as much lobster as we could possibly eat, the snapper, salad and coconut bread; and of course, the ubiquitous rum punch.  Mmmmmm.   Could the day have been any better?  Maybe, but I don’t know how.

All the lobster we could eat.  I had three!  

It Bahama Time, Mon

Atlantic Ocean beach, Green Turtle Cay

I fell in love again.  This time with an island called Green Turtle Cay which I shall miss when we sail on to our next place to explore, which, of course, we must do.

All streets in New Plymouth are narrow

We are told by other cruisers that have been coming to the Bahamas for years that Green Turtle Cay is the “real” Bahamas.  The island has not been bought up by big investors and fancy folks.  It is a quiet place with narrow little streets, friendly people and stunning beaches.  Tourism is the main business, and the Bahamians treat us very well.  I thank them for being such gracious hosts and letting us enjoy their beautiful island with them for a little while.

Chickens may go where they like

Time moves a little slower here.  It’s Bahama time, mon.  Chickens roam freely all over the island.  The occasional dog is seen roaming as well, and they are referred to as “PotCakes.” They are named thusly because Bahamians historically did not buy dog food for their dogs.  Instead the dog ate whatever was left in the cooking pot when the family was done eating. The few cars and trucks on the island tend to be quite small and rather old.  There are more rental golf carts and walkers on the streets than anything else however. 

New Plymouth harbor at sunset.  Arrived by dinghy, at the city dock.

Churches—there are lots of churches, even though the population of New Plymouth is small. Churches seem to be the hub of the community.  We stopped at a church bake sale a few days ago.  The bake sale consisted of a card table with a few pieces of guava cream cheese bars and oreo cheesecake.  But, and this was a big but….they were also selling “Gullywash.”  Gullywash is a drink made from coconut juice, milk and gin.  It was served by the good ladies of the congregation and assisted by their primary school-aged helpers.  We walked away with two gullywashes and a piece of guava cream cheese bar.  Gullywash, at 11:00 in the morning, while walking around the town.   How un-Minnesota Lutheran. 

  
    Rules of commerce that I am accustomed to have been smudged a bit so that what I was expecting to happen, may not be what happens.  For example, we acquired a loaf of coconut bread only once, and that was through another cruiser who heard we were looking for it.  We made french toast and ate it with our Minnesota maple syrup.   I drool when I recall the taste.  Our problem has been that it seems no matter what time of day we look for the coconut bread, it has been sold out.  The Bahamians all say the same thing, “It go really fast.”  Sometimes we see loaves tucked up high on a shelf that are marked “SOLD.”  If a place tells you they make it on Tuesdays, they may have it bought and paid for before it’s even out of the oven. 

Harvey's outdoor seating for a great burger

One of the bakeries provided me with a bit of insight.  I went into the bakery with the silly assumption that if I wanted to buy some coconut bread, that surely I could do so, at some future time anyhow.  Finally, the clerk behind the counter was able to get it through my thick American head — “Some days she make it; some days she don’t.”  “Will she make it tomorrow?” I ask.  She goes in the back and comes back after a brief conversation.  “Yes, she say she make it tomorrow.”  I was hopeful I was getting somewhere.  “Oh great!  What time of day should I get here to be sure I can get some?”  The woman was very patient with me, “It depend on what time she come in.”  “Oh.”

Mo-Mo's makes coconut bread on Tuesdays only.

Some other things are kind of hit or miss as well.  For example, the cash machine at the sole bank in the town has been broken for well over two months now, per the locals.  And the bank is only open one day/week.  If you want to buy a SIM card for your phone (to make your American phone a Bahamian phone) you have to go on Thursdays.  Between 9:00 and 3:00.  

Street signs in New Plymouth

On Saturdays, some stores close at noon.  Others may stay open until 9:00 PM!   Why, I don’t know.  Occasionally, we find a place that is closed over a lunch hour, maybe until 2:30.  There are lots of wonderful little mom n’ pop places to eat, and none of them are open all day.  There is a breakfast time, a lunch period — maybe 11:00 to 1:30 PM and a dinner hour — maybe 4:30 to 7:00.  Maybe.  You never know.   Once in a while, a sign on the door - “Saturday.  Fishing.”  Nothing is open on Sundays.  No complaints from us about that.

Primary school on top of the hill

The primary school is up on the highest point on the island.  Good for young legs.  The high school is a ferry and a bus ride away in Marsh Harbor or Cooperstown.  If you are looking for someplace, read the signs on the electrical poles.  The island is not large enough to require signs to find the ocean beaches although there are a few.   If you go in any direction, you will find water there sooner or later.  

New Plymouth with Sea of Abaco beyond.

WiFi may or may NOT be available.  The cruisers say, “Rather than get frustrated, look around and remember where you are.”  Some things are predictable however.  The ferries run every day from 8 - 5:00 PM.  The bars all have a specialty rum drink and conch (pro. conk) is served everywhere.  The supply ship shows up every Thursday, with everything that is not produced on the island.  And the mail is delivered.  This is the real Bahamas!

If the supply ship is here, it must be Thursday.