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Showing posts with label Abacos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Abacos. Show all posts

Monday, January 8, 2018

Roti, Ackee and Christophene

A rare sight---a garden in a backyard in St. John's, Antigua

I’ll give you three guesses.  Roti, Ackee and Christophene……what do you think these are names for?  
The man with the knife is removing the outer husk from the sugar cane.

Nope, not a law firm. Not a Roto-Rooter type thing, nor a septic sucking company. Good guesses though.  Give?  These are foods we have been eating recently.  Some with greater appreciation than others.
A Pork Roti that I couldn't wait to dig into.

Roti (RO-tee) is sort of a Caribbean version of an empanada or of a Northern Minnesota pasty. It is filled with curried chicken, pork or beef and potato, and sometimes filled with a combination of veggies only. I haven’t found one yet that I didn’t like! 
Roadside vendor in St. John's

There are little restaurants and small portable stands alongside the roads that sell hot rotis.  
This is the "famous" Roti Sue

One place nearby that we like particularly is called Roti Sue’s.  I’ve watched Sue roll out the tender floury dough to a very thin and stretchy circle that is then placed on a griddle by her helper. After it has been cooked and flipped over, it is placed onto a plate, upon which is piled your choice of filling and then the roti is “sealed” up and turned over to make a delicious little “package” for lunch. 
The helper that flips the roti

I noted with interest that a long, narrow,  smooth-edged stick is used to handle the roti on the hot griddle. Watching her flip the roti  reminded me of making potato lefse at Christmas time in Minnesota. In fact, roti does look like lefse before it is filled with the curry.
Another roti restaurant--5 small oilcloth-covered tables with bright green chairs.  St. John's, Antigua

We can buy a roti for lunch that will cost somewhere between 10 and 20 EC.  (EC=Eastern Caribbean money).  Divide the ECs by 2 1/2 to calculate the cost in U.S. dollars.  At Roti Sue’s, we can buy a delicious, filling roti for only $3.70 US.  
Roadside truckload of coconuts.  The coconut water is
being funneled into a plastic bottle for sale.

Along with the roti, we may choose one of her freshly bottled juices such as starfruit, pineapple and ginger, or mango for another 5 EC.  Sometimes folks who make roti will peddle them in the mornings where there are a lot of people around. They come wrapped in aluminum foil and just need to be reheated closer to lunch time. 
Two small christophene and a dragon fruit

“Christophene” is the name that Antiguans use for this next food.  In other parts of the Caribbean or Central America, it is called Chayote (chah-YO-tay).  It’s an amazingly useful and very versatile food, and although I find it hard to think of it as a squash, that is indeed the family to which it belongs. I’m shaking my head though……it tastes nothing like any squash I’ve ever had; it has a negligible outer peel which does not have to be removed before eating raw.  
Open air market

We have found that we really like raw chayote in a hearty salad. Using chayote, I can make a salad that keeps well for days. I start with some cooked brown rice, black beans, a chopped orange or yellow pepper, green pepper, chopped red onion and instead of using apple which I always did in the U.S., I chop up a couple of chayotes instead.  When I’ve served the salad to others, they’ve think they’re eating apple or cucumber or some kind of fruit.  The taste of the chayote is mild and blends perfectly with whatever it is paired with.  I top the salad with the juice of a couple limes, or a mixture of some olive oil, apple cider vinegar, salt, pepper and maybe a little cayenne. 
One of our favorite salads aboard Northern Star

Chayote can be cooked too, of course.  It can be sautéed with onion and garlic, or boiled and used in place of a starchy vegetable in any kind of dish. I’ve seen a recipe using it in lasagna in place of the pasta!  It keeps very well for several days as long as it’s out of the sun.  And once it’s cut up into the salad, it does not turn color like apples tend to do. Oh, and it’s an economical food too.
Ackee within their rinds.  Below them, starfruit.

Ackee is a quite unusual food in my book.  When we saw it in an open air market, my guess was that it was a fruit because it’s pretty and has a thick outer rind.  It is, however, a vegetable.  Hmph! So, we bought some while in St. John’s, the largest city on Antigua because we just had to try it.  
A woman bringing her purchases home from market.

The friends we were with bought some ackee too, and wisely stored theirs in the refrigerator until it was used.  Inconveniently for our ackee, we were in the midst of equalizing our batteries (meaning, we shut down the freezer and fridge for several hours) and our ackee grew fluffy white foam after the second day without refrigeration.  In short, it became quite icky…..or ackee. It was dead.  
The black "ball" is the ackee seed. The vegetable
itself is only ~ 1-2" long

Our friends had us over for dinner and served us a pork dish which used slices of cooked ackee.  Here is our friends’ report on the process of working with the ackee.  “The seed (big black ball thingy on top) did not come off easily, like one might have expected.  Then, the yellow ackee had to be sliced thinly.  It did not slice easily either.  It was tedious,” she said.  I believe I heard the word “tedious” repeated another time or two.  The taste was uninspiring.  I actually have no idea what it tasted like because I really couldn’t discern the flavor within the dish.  The general consensus of the four of us was, “Meh.”  
Public market in St. John's.  In the foreground, many different root vegetables.

I’ve only come across ackee that one time and I won’t look for it again.  It was not inexpensive and I’m banning it from my galley.  No ackee. Huh…..that’s what I used to say when I wanted one of my children to spit out something that should not have gone into their mouths,  “No….that’s ackee!”
Pickled pork snout and pork tail were a Christmas "special" in Jolly
Harbour, Antigua. We did not try any snout nor tail.






Sunday, May 7, 2017

A Surprise and a Decision Point

Dolphins  at the bow
"I was not on the boat when she made landfall in the U.S. last Wednesday morning.  I missed out on what was apparently, a memorably fast sail across the Gulf Stream.  I missed the beautiful overnight on the ocean, and seeing the dolphins race under our bow. I missed meeting the little hitchhiker that landed onboard.  And I missed good times with Carl's two substitute crew." quote -  Facebook > sailboat.northern.star May 5, 2017.


Carl replacing the port navigation light
At about the same time that our boat was nearing the completion of its extensive electrical repairs, another unfortunate event set us back on our heels yet again. This setback would come in the form of a crew malfunction.  The story goes like this.

March 22 Wednesday, Marsh Harbor. Yours truly spent the afternoon on her hands and knees scrubbing away dirt and mildew from the cockpit cushions and shade panels as they lay spread out over the docks.  Sometimes rather than kneeling, I did a sideways half-crouch, with left knee, foot and hand on the ground supporting my body weight, while my right leg was extended to the side and my right arm wielded the scrub brush. It was an awkward position and I knew it, but I'll admit to a degree of stubbornness that surfaces within me in situations like this; it was a vigorous, sweaty job that needed to be done and I was not about to let it go undone.
These shade panels were unzipped and spread across the dock for cleaning.

I noticed a bit of discomfort ("muscle strain" I called it) in the area inside my left buttock afterward. (It was a discomfort similar to what I experienced after doing "extreme" landscaping. When I lived on land, my gardening involved a lot of heavy labor--excavating hillsides, building stone walls, turning over large areas of sod, laying down river rock and so on. It was my passion and I did endure hip pain from time to time for it.)

Northern Star free of shore power at last!
March 28  Tuesday. "Pulled muscle pain" still noted with activity and occasionally a shooting pain down my left leg. Walking has become laborious but the worst thing is to sit. Taking 800 mg Ibuprofen every 6 hours.

April 2  Sunday.  We leave the marina for the first time in 59 days. Northern Star is mobile again!  Waking up with left hip pain in the night.


April 4 Tuesday. Sadly, I have to forego snorkeling with our guests due to increased left hip pain.  It would feel good to be weightless in the water, but I can't figure out a way to get into and out of the water.  I can't bend at the hip on my left.


The Green Emerald hummingbird
April 8  Saturday.  I couldn't pass up the chance to go on a birding tour with our guests.  Unfortunately, riding in the guide's truck to reach the birding sites was almost unbearable for me. 

 How painful the dinghy has become. 
April 10  Monday. Our guests have gone home and Carl convinces me it's time to see a doctor. I whimper getting into the dinghy to go to shore. I require Carl's help to get up and out of the dinghy. I lean on him to slowly walk the two blocks to the clinic where I stand in tremulous pain throughout the exam. Dr. Hull advises that if I am not improved by Thursday (the day before a four-day Easter weekend) I should be evacuated out to Nassau or to Florida in order to have an MRI of my lower back.  Marsh Harbor does not have an MRI machine. We were surprised to find that today's clinic visit cost only $129 and that included the muscle relaxant and narcotics sent home with me. Wow! Now THAT is a reasonable cost for medical care.


Back at the dock once again.


 Carl moves the boat back into a marina slip with the help of two cruising friends. Being at a dock allows me to get on and off the boat without using the dinghy which is torturous.

My comfy bed became impossible to use.

April 13  Thursday  I'm unable to sleep in our bed anymore because I can't get in and out without screaming in pain.  I fret about flying out for help because I would have to sit upright on the plane. I told Carl I was a little bit better and would hold out through the weekend.

No problem finding someone to take care of Jax
April 17  Monday  I was a fool to say I was improved. My left leg is on fire constantly with sharp pains shooting down the leg, my toes are tingling and intermittent numbness makes my leg weak and my gait feels off.  Pain meds provide little relief anymore.  I agree to fly out to Miami.  Carl began to work on evacuation arrangements with the help of DAN (Divers Alert Network) and Dr. Hull.  DAN will fly both of us out because I cannot travel alone. Our health insurance, Blue Cross/Blue Shield will take effect in the U.S. A new friend and fellow sailor offered to take care of Jax while we are gone.
                        
                       <A Surprise>
Marsh Harbor anchorage
The VHF radio was on.  "Northern Star, Northern Star.  This is SeaScape."  Carl and I looked at each other in surprise. SeaScape was anchored in the harbor nearby; the very same SeaScape that had towed us for miles in Long Island Sound last October.  I listened to Carl talk on the radio with Gary and Jan on SeaScape.  They had been traveling around within the Abacos of the Bahamas over the winter and just now, they noticed Northern Star on AIS.
Unfortunately, I was in no condition to receive visitors and Carl explained our situation and his task at hand--to get me to Florida.  Gary said, "I don't know if I've ever mentioned this, but I am a cranio/sacral therapist.  I'd be glad to come over and see if I can provide some pain relief for Ardys. And Jan is an RN." 
Lily pads in fresh water, Lake Superior

'Unbelievable', I thought, What are the chances of someone sailing into the anchorage bringing just the sort of skill set that might be of help to me, right at this time? I was quite willing to have them come as therapists, rather than as visitors to our boat.

Therapy provided some pain relief--like a rainbow after the storm.   Lake Superior, Duluth, MN
  Gary and Jan together gave me an hour-long therapy session unlike anything I have been exposed to in my past as a medical social worker. I found the treatment to be very gentle and calming to my overactive nerves that were constantly firing in my left leg. They left me quietly at rest on the bed and chatted briefly with Carl before leaving the boat.   They returned again the next day for another hour-long therapy session. I could not have asked for anything better from anyone at that point. Just unbelievable! 

April 19  Wednesday morning. Marsh Harbor to Miami  0800 Taxi to the Marsh Harbor airport with me lying across the back seat, head in Carl's lap.  DAN has arranged for Carl and I to fly First-Class to Miami to allow me a partial recline and for a wheelchair to meet me at the gate.  On to the Aventura Hospital ER where X-rays rule out vertebral fractures and confirm there is no subluxation (dislocated bone). No MRI was done however. I was discharged from the ER by 1500 with pain meds and orders to see an Orthopedist on Friday.

                      <Major Decision Point> 

Northern Star heading west across the Gulf Stream
April 19 Wednesday afternoon. Miami hotel. We still don't know what is causing my chronic pain and we have no idea how long it will take to get a diagnosis. What kind of treatment will be needed and how long will that take? Do we stay in Florida indefinitely, in a hotel?  Do I stay here by myself while Carl returns to the Bahamas to bring Northern Star back to the U.S.? Bear in mind that our boat (our home) will no longer be insured if it is not above the Florida/Georgia border by June 1. We are already paying daily for the boat to remain in a marina at the same time as we now begin to pay for a hotel room in Miami, with no known end point in sight for either. I cannot return to live on the boat until I can bend and sit and safely move around. Carl needs someone to help move the boat back to the U.S. but it won't be me. What do we do?
                                                                          
We sold this Duluth home before moving aboard Northern Star
.When we sold our house in preparation for moving onto the boat, we had many "what if" discussions between us.  One of the "what ifs" was this very kind of scenario.  What if one of us is injured or very ill or needs surgery and time to recuperate on land? What do we do then, with no house/home to return to on land.  
Duluth Yacht Club Wednesday night races. 

We talked long and hard about that and made some important decisions and preparations that would now guide us in our decision-making. We both love Duluth, and we love all our friends there.  Duluth feels like home, regardless of whether we own property there or not.  

West Lighthouse of Canal entrance, Duluth, MN

Several of our friends have extended us generous invitations to stay with them, even for an extended period of time, if ever needed.  One of them has an extra little house out back where we could stay; two of them have a lower-level living area that they have offered; another has an entire second home on a lake where we could stay! We could not be more fortunate to have those loyal friends who are so open and generous with their lives and willing to share their personal space with us. So, we would go to Duluth, right?

Rock of Ages Light, Isle Royale, Lake Superior


 But the rest of our "what if" discussion went something like this.  Between us, we have only one living parent, Carl's mom who lives in Memphis.  We want to be able to spend as much time with her as possible even though we are living on the water.  If some life event required a period of recuperation for one of us and we spent that time in Duluth, we would be missing out on time that could have been spent near her.
Carl with him mom, Karen on Lake Superior.  2005

Because we know that we will always want to spend time in Memphis with Carl's mom and sisters, we made the decision to move our medical care from Duluth to Memphis.  In fact, just last October was when we accomplished the transition so that now we both have a primary care physician in Memphis, along with our specialists: a  dermatologist, ophthalmologist, cardiologist, internal medicine doctor and nephrologist.


 There were further discussions with Carl's sisters, too, for example, about maintaining a safe deposit box in Memphis with our most important documents to reside there.  Keeping these in Memphis as opposed to storing them with the rest of the things in our Duluth storage unit would make them available should any crises occur. 

Jax and Carl, Green Turtle Cay, Abacos, Bahamas
Documents such as our birth certificates, marriage certificate, long-term care policies, retirement funds and accounts need to be kept safely on land somewhere, not riding on the boat with us in case the boat, god forbid, catches fire or sinks. Carl's sisters have graciously accepted the role of primary contact in the event of a major disaster at sea.  They would be there to assist the surviving spouse in the event of a death.  So, that helped to shape our decision. I would go to Memphis for diagnosis and treatment. Once the boat is safely delivered to a place where it can be left, Carl can join me in Memphis or do whatever else we need to do at that point.


April 19  Wednesday late afternoon, Miami to Memphis
Carl's cousin, Dean
There was still a flight available for me to fly on to Memphis that same day. DAN's role in this whole ordeal was not yet over, in that they would be willing to pay for me to return to Marsh Harbor OR to my place of legal residence which is in Green Cove Springs, Florida. 
Carl and our friend Justin
As it turned out, it was less expensive to fly me to Memphis than to Green Cove Springs, so DAN arranged that.  I flew on to Memphis, First Class, wheelchair waiting for me at the gate. Carl flew back to Marsh Harbor, courtesy of DAN, where he quickly had two seasoned sailor friends fly out to join him for the sail back to the States.


Ardys. "I prefer the floor".
May 7 Sunday  Memphis. I am staying with one of Carl's sisters and her husband in Germantown. I have seen my primary doctor and a physical medicine doctor with whom I did not hit it off.  My MRI shows a herniated disc at L5/S1 and the two discs above that are bulging. That certainly explains the pain.  Tomorrow I see a neurologist.  And that brings us up-to-date for now.  Until later....




Friday, April 15, 2016

Nudists of Tilloo Cay

Several boats anchored off Tilloo Cay.  

There is no nudist colony on Tilloo Cay, however I suspect that the catamaran of nude people next to us are not the first ones to visit this beach.  Why do I think this?  A few reasons—first off, on the beach there are pieces of tent suspended purposefully from a couple of trees (providing shade) white plastic chairs (known as the least hot surface against bare skin) and a little further down the beach, there is a roughly built ribcage-high table. (I am no expert, but I am guessing that while nude, standing to eat may be the most sensible thing.  Even the tidiest of eaters end up with crumbs in a lap, that is if there is a lap.  Better to just let the crumbs fall where they will, I say).  
Ribcage high table and water jugs

Next to the table, several empty spring water jugs.  Why are empty water jugs suspicious for nude partiers you ask?  Stands to reason—anyone who hangs out on the beach for a long time is going to get thirsty and yet, there is a conspicuous lack of beer and liquor containers here.  Very odd in a country where rum is so cheap and isolated beautiful beaches so plentiful.  The most reasonable explanation I can think of, is that the trail of nude visitors passing through here have wisely avoided intoxication while on the beach.  Probably better to not call attention to a large group of people sporting their birthday suits, right? 
Tilloo Cay beach

The primary reason, though, that I suspect these are not the first nude visitors is because after their boat was anchored and they had a brief chat on deck, they headed directly to that spot on the beach, in two dinghy trips of 4 to 5 clothed persons each time—as if they knew exactly where to go.  And then immediately became unclothed.  I was glad that Carl noticed this fact before we landed on the beach next to them with Jax.  Jax could care less what humans do or do not wear but he would certainly have wanted to sniff out each of them individually, to see whether they would like to pet him, and were they carrying any treats for him. Might not have been appreciated in a group of bare butted folks.  
A sauna in the North Woods, actually Canadian soil

Other than northern Minnesotans I have known that will share a sauna (in the buff) and then race out into the snow to cool down (pretty bizarre behavior for otherwise subdued folks) I’ve never really known anyone personally who looks for opportunities to walk around naked.  So, let me just say this— I don’t get it.  What is it that fuels the desire to see and be seen by others all of them lacking even the tiniest fig leaf for cover?  Is it because clothing is uncomfortable?  Confining?  Is that it?  I’ve known some children with Asperger’s Syndrome who are so bothered by the feeling of clothing against their skin that their parents report it difficult to keep the child clothed.  I, myself, have experienced some scratchy, troublesome clothing tags, but in general, I really don’t have any quarrels with clothing.  I’d even go so far as to say that I LIKE wearing clothes.  
Looking over the Sea of Abaco from highest point on Tilloo Cay

But here’s what I’m trying to parse out—leasing a catamaran for a week in the Bahamas on a vacation with 7 of one’s closest friends, all of it orchestrated around the desire to get away from disagreeable clothing seems a little extreme to me.  It’s not as if we are dealing with stuffy Victorian attitudes about swimwear for heavens’ sake.  I mean, Speedos are so small already that very little of the human body is concealed.  But is even that too much coverage?  If so, it must be the principle of being clothed—the expectation that bodies should be concealed that is objectionable.
Jax belly-dipping at Tilloo Cay beach

So, if the goal is to experience the freedom to go out and about without adhering to "arbitrary" rules about clothing one’s body, then why I ask, are all but two of these nude vacationers so reluctant to walk the beach?  Most of them are clinging to the part of the beach with the tent shades and the stand-up-to-eat table.  I mean, I’m not staring or anything, but they do not seem to be enjoying the beach.   In fact, there are more people lurking back under the trees than near the water.  

Only one nude couple went walking the beach.  Hats are acceptable for nudists.
One nude couple, however, strolled down the beach, looking for all the world as if they were coming solely to have a chat with us.  What is proper etiquette for a clothed couple when they meet with a nude couple on the beach?  There seem to be so many ways in which ordinary chitchat could lead one down a rocky path.  For their part, the nude couple seemed to be focused on appearing totally “cool” with their own nudity. 
Live sponge found on Tilloo Cay and returned to water.

Their agenda may have been to warn us of their approach in case we would be uncomfortable, but they hailed us well in advance of their arrival. There is an appropriate distance from which people who do not know each other may call out a greeting.  I don’t know what that exact distance is, but I do know when it’s too far away, as this one was. 
Nonchalant nudists

Now, I agree that one really should not be in the habit of trying to second guess what others are up to, but I could’t help thinking that this couple was making a statement to the rest of their group.  ‘See how comfortable we are walking on the beach in plain sight for all to see.  Watch us and learn. You, too, can be comfortable in your own skin.”
Fossilized reefs undercut by the tide.  

Upon closing the gap between us, the cigar smoking gentleman immediately inquired as to whether we were “okay” with their nudity.  Well, what can one say to that question?  “Oh sure, we talk to nude people on the beach all the time.”  “No problem, I wouldn’t even be wearing clothing myself but for this huge bruise on my behind….”  “Oh, gosh, are you nudists? I hadn’t noticed.”  “Nice tans!”  “I’ve been dying to take off my pants.  Excuse me while I disrobe too.”  No, none of that.  I kept it simple.  I left Carl there alone to talk with them while I collected more shells. 
Tilloo Cay shell and sponge collection

When I joined them, they were trading boat information and all the usual things, “where did you come from?  How long are you here?”  “What is your workout routine—you look like you’re in good shape.”  (Just kidding about the last part).
Live critter at home in this shell

It seems to me that without clothing a person is in need of additional props.  The gentleman with his huge cigar, for example.  The woman who then joined me in looking for shells in the water.  It gave her something to do with her hands.  She spent the entire time bent over (backside facing the water) looking into a square yard of shallow water.  There weren’t THAT many shells!  She and I chatted like old friends while staring at the water.  Why did we both make a point of demonstrating how “okay” we were with her nudity?  I don’t know if she was trying to make eye contact with me, but my eyes were definitely glued to the water.   And all the time, what I really wanted to do was just ask, “What is it about being nude in public that you find appealing?  I just want to understand.  Seriously.”     
Jax is totally unimpressed with a nude beach.


There are vacations for all kinds of folks, aren’t there?